Question about tie rod end castle nut/cotter pin.

"Meatcoma" (mastapoof) 05/30/2017 at 11:39 • Filed to: None

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So this weekend I replaced a tie-rod end and the torque-spec for the castle nut was 67ft-lb. I torqued it down and the top of the castle nut was below the keeper pin hole. I’ve never had this happen before. Should I be trying to find a taller castle nut or a new pitman arm? Possibly wrong tie rod end?

Surely I shouldn’t loosen it just so the cotter pin lines up.... I mean logically that makes no sense.

Urambo Tauro > Meatcoma 05/30/2017 at 11:52

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Just stack some washers underneath the nut.

Duck Duck Grey Duck FTMFW! > Meatcoma 05/30/2017 at 11:52

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Not that my advice is good advice but, I have loosened or tightened it just a smidgen to make it work on my cars if it didn’t line up.

Trevor Slattery, ACTOR > Meatcoma 05/30/2017 at 12:08

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Either stack washers or get a Nyloc nut to replace it.

merged-5876237249235911857-hrw8uc > Meatcoma 05/30/2017 at 12:14

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Washers sound like a good idea. I’ve always just let it ride and make sure the cotter key is bent in a way to engage the castle nut. It’s just there to keep the nut from backing off.

Meatcoma > Duck Duck Grey Duck FTMFW! 05/30/2017 at 15:47

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Yea, the cotter pin hole is above the top of the castle nut, like I could loosen it 3 or turns before it started to touch the cotter pin.

Nisman > Meatcoma 05/30/2017 at 15:52

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I wouldn’t use washers. Would probably cause alignment woes. I’d just slip the cotter on and be done. It’s still going to work if the castle were to ever start to loosen!

Meatcoma > Nisman 05/30/2017 at 16:33

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That’s what I was wondering and that’s what I did. Surely manufacturers aren’t suggesting we stack a bunch of washers to make something work as intended. I planned on looking at the old one to see if there is a difference in length or cotter pin hole distance etc.

Nisman > Meatcoma 05/30/2017 at 17:53

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Either way it’s odd but I wouldn’t be overly concerned. Make sure you torque your lugs properly!